From Volcanic Peaks to Island Shores

Crossing the Bali Strait

📌 By Jakub Mikula | February 25, 2024

Explore the enchanting southern region of Java with an unforgettable journey that includes witnessing the majestic beauty of a volcano, traversing the Bali Strait, and culminating in the serene paradise of Nusa Penida. This adventure is suitable for solo travellers seeking a budget yet enriching week-long escapade.

During my visit, I opted for the train journey from Surabaya to Banyuwangi, enticed by the affordable ticket prices and eager for the experience of Indonesian train travel. Despite its duration of over six hours, the ride provided an opportunity to connect with fellow travellers. Snacks and beverages were available for purchase onboard. However, the train’s leisurely pace and limited legroom were notable drawbacks. For those contemplating a similar voyage, I would advice to secure your train tickets at least one day in advance.

Ijen

While I had researched the volcano beforehand, I could never have imagined just how incredible the experience would turn out to be. I woke up at 1m to be picked up by a driver who continued gathering other travellers before dropping us off at the base near the park entrance where we awaited our guide. The temperature was already quite chilly; fortunately, an array of small shops was open offering snacks, fruits and warm beverages. Our guide welcomed us with a set of masks, and we commenced out ascent at around 3am when the park gate opened. The hike itself was not overly challenging, while there was also an option to hire a small wagon pushed by the locals for a small fee, should one prefer not to trek the entire route on foot. As we ascended, the overpowering scent of sulphur prompted us to don our masks for respite. Upon reaching the summit, darkness was still cloaking the entire region. Yet, faint trails were seen to stretch out from the deepness of the crater like illuminated veins, formed by the headlights of the fellow hikers.

Opting for one of these trails, we began our descent into the crater’s depths. Along the way, we encountered workers laboriously transporting sulphur blocks from the crater floor up on foot. Upon finally reaching the crater, we were greeted by the mesmerizing blue glow of burning sulphur escaping from the pipes.

As the sky gradually brightened, only then I realized, we were standing beside a vast lake that filled the crater. During our ascent, I had been mesmerized by the azure hue of the lake, juxtaposed against the smoky backdrop of sulphur emissions.

The entire landscape resembled something from another world, with rocks in various shades of grey, green, and yellow dominating the scene.

Not a single tree or blade of grass could be seen within the crater; if there were any, they appeared lifeless.

However, the contrast was stark on the mountain’s outskirts, where lush forests enveloped the entire volcano, presenting a striking contrast to the desolation seen inside.

The entire hike lasted the whole morning, and by afternoon, we were back in Banyuwangi.

Bali

Crossing the Bali Strait entails arriving at the Ketapang ferry terminal. There you will notice several buses parked alongside the main road, where you can purchase the ticket and board the bus, which will take you directly to the ferry. During the journey, you have the freedom to roam the deck, soaking in the breathtaking landscape of the two islands separated by the strait. Upon reaching the Gilimanuk ferry terminal in Bali, the same bus continues its journey southward to Ubud. From there, the only option is to hire a taxi to transport you to your accommodation further south. I decided to stay near Sanur, given plenty of travel agencies along the beach offering tours to Penida Island. I booked my one-day tour on one evening strolling along the beach. The tour package encompassed both the ferry ride to Penida and a guided car excursion around the island. As a solo traveler, I joined a group of adventurers from Australia, and together, we navigated the island’s narrow streets with the aid of a knowledgeable local guide. The pinnacle of our journey was undoubtedly the awe-inspiring Broken Beach.

Here, colossal waves surged through a small cave-like opening, crashing against the rocky walls of what from distance appeared to look like a crater. Following our exploration of Broken Beach, we made our way to the Panorama Warung restaurant, where our tour provided a delicious lunch. Energized by our meal, we eagerly continued to the highlight of the trip: the iconic T-Rex-shaped Kelingking Cliff.

The panoramic view from this vantage point was nothing short of breathtaking. Unfortunately, our tightly packed itinerary left us with insufficient time to descend to the beach below—a privilege reserved for those with extended stays or private tour packages on the island.

Nonetheless, the experience of witnessing these natural wonders left an indelible impression on all of us. Our final destination brought us to the serene shores of Crystal Bay Beach. Here, we soaked in the tranquility of the surroundings before bidding farewell to Nusa Penida. By evening, we found ourselves back on the shores of Bali, enriched by a day filled with unforgettable experiences and breathtaking scenery.