From Volcanic Peaks to Island Shores

Crossing the Bali Strait

📌 By Jakub Mikula | February 25, 2024

Explore the enchanting southern region of Java with an unforgettable journey that includes witnessing the majestic beauty of a volcano, crossing the Bali Strait, and ending in the serene paradise of Nusa Penida. This adventure is ideal for solo travellers looking for a budget-friendly yet enriching week-long escape.

During my visit, I chose to take the train from Surabaya to Banyuwangi, drawn by the affordable ticket prices and curious to experience Indonesian train travel. Although the ride took over six hours, it offered a chance to connect with fellow travellers. Snacks and drinks were available for purchase onboard. However, the train’s slow pace and limited legroom were noticeable drawbacks. If you are planning a similar trip, I would advise booking your train tickets at least one day in advance.

Ijen

Although I had researched the volcano beforehand, I could never have imagined how incredible the experience would be. I woke up at 1am to be picked up by a driver, who continued collecting other travellers before dropping us off near the park entrance. There, we waited for our guide. The temperature was already quite chilly. Fortunately, several small shops were open, selling snacks, fruit, and warm drinks. Our guide greeted us and handed out masks, and we began our ascent at around 3am when the park gate opened. The hike itself was not too challenging. There was also an option to hire a small wagon pushed by locals for a small fee, if you preferred not to walk the entire way. As we climbed, the strong smell of sulphur made us put on our masks for relief. When we reached the summit, darkness still covered the entire area. Even so, faint trails could be seen stretching down into the crater like glowing veins, formed by the headlamps of other hikers.

Choosing one of these trails, we began our descent into the depths of the crater. Along the way, we passed workers laboriously carrying blocks of sulphur from the crater floor up the mountain on foot. When we finally reached the crater floor, we were greeted by the mesmerizing blue glow of burning sulphur escaping from the pipes.

As the sky gradually brightened, I realized we were standing beside a vast lake that filled the crater. During our ascent, I had been captivated by the lake’s vivid turquoise colour, set against the smoky backdrop of sulphur emissions.

The entire landscape looked like something from another world, with rocks in shades of grey, green, and yellow dominating the scene.

Not a single tree or blade of grass could be seen inside the crater. If any existed, they looked lifeless.

The contrast was striking on the mountain’s outer slopes, where lush forests surrounded the volcano, standing in sharp contrast to the desolation inside.

The entire hike took the whole morning, and by afternoon we were back in Banyuwangi.

Bali

Crossing the Bali Strait starts at the Ketapang ferry terminal. There, you will notice several buses parked along the main road, where you can buy a ticket and board a bus that takes you directly onto the ferry. During the crossing, you are free to walk around the deck and take in the stunning views of the two islands separated by the strait. After arriving at the Gilimanuk ferry terminal in Bali, the same bus continues south to Ubud. From there, the only option is to hire a taxi to reach accommodation further south. I decided to stay near Sanur, as there are plenty of travel agencies along the beach offering tours to Nusa Penida. I booked my one-day tour one evening while strolling along the beach. The tour package included both the boat ride to Nusa Penida and a guided car tour around the island. As a solo traveller, I joined a group of adventurers from Australia, and together we explored the island’s narrow roads with the help of a knowledgeable local guide. The highlight of our journey was undoubtedly the breathtaking Broken Beach.

Here, huge waves surged through a small cave-like opening, crashing against the rocky walls of what, from a distance, looked like a crater. After exploring Broken Beach, we headed to the Panorama Warung restaurant, where our tour included a delicious lunch. Refreshed after the meal, we continued to the next highlight of the trip, the iconic T-Rex-shaped Kelingking Cliff.

The panoramic view from this viewpoint was nothing short of breathtaking. Unfortunately, our tightly packed itinerary did not leave enough time to hike down to the beach below. That is a privilege better suited to those staying longer or booking a private tour on the island.

Even so, seeing these natural wonders left a lasting impression on all of us. Our final stop took us to the calm shores of Crystal Bay Beach. There, we enjoyed the peaceful atmosphere before saying goodbye to Nusa Penida. By evening, we were back on the shores of Bali, enriched by a day full of unforgettable experiences and breathtaking scenery.